Common Warp Knitting Structures

A large number of high-performance fibers and yarns have been developed for specific advanced performance applications. However, one of the challenges for performance apparel is the rising cost of these advanced fibers and their commercial availability. This is often achieved through the use of sophisticated warp knitted structures using advanced fibers and yarns, and has gained popularity in sportswear and performance applications such as base layers.

1. Understand the common warp knitting structure

Before examining the warp knitting structure, it should be acknowledged that there are two general types of warp knitting machines, which are largely related to different types of construction. Warp knitting machines are associated with ordinary constructions, while Raschel machines are associated with open lace, jacquard and fancy jobs. The warp knitted structure consists of yarns interwoven in a zigzag pattern. It is because of this weaving effect that warp-knitted structures are more difficult to analyze than weft-knitted fabrics because they cannot be roved layer by layer. This unique feature gives the tricot fabric the positive property of being resistant to ladders.

Unlike weft knitting, where the selvage can be shaped, in warp knitting only continuous widths can be woven. The simplest warp knitting structure is basic warp knitting (semi-warp knitting); however, it is not considered a stable structure and therefore not suitable for clothing. Once the tension applied during knitting is released, the knitting loops tilt. The solution to this problem is to produce a slightly more complex structure called a "double warp knit", which results in a stable fabric. The most popular warp knitted structure is locknit, which is widely used in the underwear market.

2. Introduction of warp knitting structure

The warp knitted structure consists of a series of intermeshing loops. Yarns used to construct knitted fabrics generally have less twist than yarns used in woven constructions. There are two different types of industrial knitting techniques available, warp knitting and weft knitting. Weft knitting is the technique you are most familiar with because it is the process used by hand knitters. In commercial knitting, a stitch is called a "wale" and a row is called a "row." Different warp knit structures produce fabrics with significantly different properties. The most versatile technique is the flat knitting machine, which is capable of producing a large number of patterns and textures while shaping the panels. The latest flat knitting weft knitting technology known as garment technology should not be confused with loop technology which is described as seamless. The former produces whole garments and the latter produces seamless tubes (gussets, sleeves and straps require auxiliary machine connections). The advent of computer technology, both in hardware and software development, will continue to influence design innovations in knitted products.